northern happenings

Ben and I planned on waking up at 5am, driving up to Ekultna Canyon, climbing some ice and being back home by noon.. That was at 10:30 the night before, then we got the bright idea to leave that night, climb all night and sleep in the next day. Bingo! Why wake up early to go climbing when you’re siked for it now!?! So we jumped in my truck and started up the highway at midnight.

12:30 we pulled into the gravel lot. It was snowing and pitch black. By 12:40 we had slid down into the canyon. The river was mostly frozen but there was a spot we had to slosh through ice cold water. Our boots stayed pretty dry, and by 1:25 were at the base of a beautiful frozen waterfall – lit up in the dim white light of our headlamps. 

Ben led up the first short curtain of ice then built an anchor, the ice was sticky and a great climb.

I followed then led out the next pitch. It was such a beautiful night! It was snowing and rather warm for the canyon, 23 degrees.

We reached the top anchors at 2:25am! We couldn’t think of anywhere else we’d rather be!! 

We rappelled down and were hiking out by 2:50 and made it to the truck by 3:20.

We’ve never done the approach at night, we loved it. Because it’s was so dark, getting a reference of where you were in the canyon is much harder, so it’s just like a nice long stroll in the park… just with packs and walking on ice in the dark.

On our way home we got the chance to help out a couple people. At 4:05 we saw headlights up ahead spin and a huge plume of snow billow up in the median. We put on our flashers and pulled over ready to help dig them out. Except they flipped upside down. Ben and I ran over broke the passenger window and pried the door open to find the lady on her hands and knees. (someone wasn’t wearing a seatbelt!) Her husband was actually following her, so we helped her out of the car and into his. Ironically enough not 100 yards ahead another car was stuck deep in the ditch. She was alright, but just as shaken. After about a half hour a police car showed up so Ben and I continued home. 

By 5am we were home and unpacking… just about the time we would be waking up! It was definitely a good choice to sleep in vs. waking up early. Talk about a hell of a night!!